Day trips and overnight stays right ion our backyard

Columbia, Pennsylvania

Columbia Clock and Watch Museum

     But I hadn't gotten that far yet. As I headed toward Columbia, I thought about my destination and its best-known attraction, the National Clock and Watch Museum. I wondered if they'd capitalized on that landmark for their slogan. (Maybe "Columbia: It's Timeless"?)

     Nice thought. After all, Columbia is a very old town that features in the history of both the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. The area was originally settled in the early 1700s by Quakers, including John Wright and his daughter Susanna. John Wright operated the first ferry across the Susquehanna River. Susanna's nephew, Samuel, founded the town and named it Columbia in 1788.

     So how was I going to entertain myself in this little town? I knew I could go back to two of my favorites, the Clock and Watch Museum ("Columbia: No Time Like the Present"?) and the First National Bank Museum, or I could branch out and do something new. I decided to start at the Visitor's Center at the edge of town (445 Linden St.) to see what they recommended.

     Tourist Center staff was very helpful. "Have you seen the Clock and Watch Museum? Do you like antiques? Shopping at the Susquehanna Glass Factory? How about the river?" So many choices! I think they really enjoyed showing me just how much their town had to offer. When I left, I had an armload of brochures to direct me toward Columbia's attractions.

     The staff also told me that the town's first slogan was "Gateway to the West" because anyone wanting to travel west had to come there to take the ferry across the Susquehanna River. (Somehow I like "Columbia: Time Stands Still" better.)

     The bad news? I had already missed the farmers' market at the Columbia Market House. Built in 1869, it's the oldest market building in Lancaster County. Especially with day trips, timing is everything. The Market House is open Thursdays and Saturdays, offering fresh, local produce, lunch stands, baked goods, and crafts. It also has the distinction of having its own "dungeon." Seems the basement of the Market House, originally used as storage for the farmers, came in handy for other uses. When the jail filled up, the overflow landed (literally-they were thrown down the feed chute) in the Market House basement. If the Market House is open, ask to tour the dungeon.

     I spent the rest of my morning walking through downtown Columbia, with its pretty tree-lined streets and fascinating variety of architecture. I was surprised to see a white marble bank building that is actually still a bank (although I'm sure the ATM was added recently). After that I couldn't resist stopping at the First National Bank Museum to take a look at the 1850s bank vault and to visit owner Nora Stark. Since it was near lunchtime, I asked her for restaurant recommendations. There are a lot more choices since I last visited Columbia. ("Columbia: Time and Again"?)

     I've had the pleasure of eating at Hinkle's Pharmacy-a real old-fashioned lunch counter complete with soda fountain-so this time I decided to try the new A Taste of Styles Deli half a block from Hinkle's. The food was very good, the atmosphere relaxed (the wait staff sang "Happy Birthday" to a customer), and I had plenty of time to look over my many brochures to decide how to spend the afternoon.

     After lunch I walked down to the River Park at the west end of Walnut Street. From the park I could clearly see the Susquehanna River bridge from Wrightsville to Columbia, built to replace the one that townsfolk burned in June 1863 to prevent the Confederates' advance toward Philadelphia. (The soldiers then turned west, toward Gettysburg.) These days the bridge is a much more peaceful scene, with festivals the last week in June (to commemorate that burning) and the first weekend in October.

     The park's boat launch is made for canoes and small motorboats. Larger craft need to cross the river and put in at Long Level in York County. I stood in the shade of the large trees on the bank and enjoyed a cool breeze as I watched a few kayakers come on shore and leave again; then some fishermen backed their motorboat in and headed south on the river.

     I decided it was time for a little history lesson and walked back through the park up to Wright's Ferry Mansion. The beautiful stone home, which was built in 1738 for Susanna Wright, sits among tall trees near the river. Much to my surprise on this hot day, my tour guide welcomed me into air-conditioned comfort. We walked through what I felt was really Susanna's home, with its high ceilings, wood floors, and ornate balusters. Wright family members lived in the house until 1922 and yet the woodwork is still intact (although the original brick floors did not survive). Every room contains household items Susanna might have used, such as for food preparation or her silk business. It was a fascinating tour.

     The guide also told me that while it's known that Columbia was a stop on the Underground Railroad, no one is sure which house was involved. However, based in part on the Wrights' Quaker history and the shackles found in the mansion attic, it may have been Susanna's mansion.

     I walked away from the mansion, heading east and thinking about what the streets must have looked like 200 years ago. I had saved antiquing for last, knowing that if I started that way, I'd never do anything else. I started in the Burning Bridge Antique Market, a large co-op at the corner of Third and Walnut with a lot of local advertising memorabilia and everything from kitchenware to 1960s furniture. From there I walked half a block to Partners and Friends and wandered through their antiques until they closed ("Columbia: Not Enough Time to See It All in One Day"?).

     I returned to my car to look at my brochures one last time and decide where to have dinner-the new Union Station Grill at Fourth and Union? Or Prudhomme's Lost Cajun Kitchen in the old Rising Sun Hotel, for something spicy? I decided on Prudhomme's for the gator-on-a-stick. It was then that I found Columbia's real slogan among the brochures: "With a history that includes smuggling slaves, running whiskey, and burning our own bridge- you know you'll have a good time."